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Grilled Leg of Lamb with Rosemary Salt

Serves 6 generously
For lamb:
1 1/2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt
7 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 1/2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 (5 1/2 lb) piece boneless butterflied leg of lamb
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

For rosemary salt:
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon Maldon sea salt or other flaky sea salt

Special equipment: 8 to 10 (12 inch) wooden or metal skewers; an instant read thermometer

Marinate lamb:
> Stir together yogurt, garlic, rosemary, and pepper in a 13 x 9 inch glass baking dish or 2 gallon sealable plastic bag. Add lamb, turning to coat completely, and marinate, covered and chilled, turning over once or twice, 5 hours.
> Bring lamb to room temperature, about 1 hour.
> Remove lamb from marinade, discarding marinade, and put on a work surface. Run skewers horizontally through meat, about 1 1/2 inches apart, first lengthwise (4 or 5 skewers), then crosswise (4 or 5 skewers) to form a grid. (Skewering makes meat easier to move and turn over.) Sprinkle with kosher salt.
> Prepare grill for cooking. If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. Charcoal fire is medium-hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 3 to 4 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then reduce to moderate.
> Grill lamb, covered only if using a gas grill, on lightly oiled grill rack, turning occasionally, until thermometer inserted diagonally into thickest part of meat registers 125 F for medium-rare (thinner parts will register higher), 25 to 30 minutes if using charcoal or 20 to 25 minutes if using gas. Transfer lamb to a cutting board and let stand 10 minutes before thinly slicing.
Make rosemary salt:
> Stir together rosemary and sea salt and serve with lamb.

Cooks note:
If you are not able to grill outdoors, you can cook lamb in a well-seasoned double-burner grill pan. Omit skewering and cut lamb into 3 or 4 pieces to fit in pan, then grill over moderately high heat, turning over once, 20 to 25 minutes.